My first taste of the duck-breast adobo at Neng Jr.’s, Silver Iocovozzi’s Asheville, N.C., restaurant, made me feel like a handsome NBA superstar dining at Le Bernardin—it was that special. The dish had both the essential Indigenous flavors of umami-sour soy-vinegar and a luscious layering of rich fortification by an expert saucier.
Silver has always had a point of view with a steadfast vision—they know what they want, and they can see where they are headed. They take a meticulous approach to studying, referencing, and annotating flavor, as the best chefs do.
And they’ve always cooked how they live, with bold curiosity and vigor. Queer trans folks integrate to survive, and so do Filipinos. We aim to thrive with style and gusto. With Silver’s presence and culinary contributions, you can taste their addition to our histories.
Dimayuga is a chef and author
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