For as much its critics may proclaim that fashion is frivolous or some kind of fantastical escapism, it’s worth remembering that one of fashion’s primary functions is social expression. What we choose to wear and why can speak volumes about how we live in a rapidly changing world.
Likewise, if fashion functions as a form of cultural reaction, then fashion photography is cultural record, providing context, evidence, and commentary on the particular moment in time. This couldn’t be more evident than in Icons of Style: A Century of Fashion Photography, 1911-2011, an exhibition opening on Tuesday in Los Angeles at the J. Paul Getty Museum, Getty Center.
Starting with the advent of modern fashion photography in 1911 and ending with contemporary work in 2011, the exhibit is a veritable crash course in 100 years of style, showcasing the talents of legendary photographers like Man Ray, Richard Avedon, Helmut Newton, Gordon Parks, Guy Bourdin, Herb Ritts, and Inez & Vinoodh.
From Cecil Beaton’s 1941 photograph of a stoic yet soigné model amid the WWII blitz-ravaged rubble of London to Jamel Shabazz’s achingly cool street style photos of the hip hop scene in the early ‘80s in New York City, the over 160 photographs featured serve as not only a retrospective of fashion photography, but the political, cultural, and social evolution of a century.
Bathing Suits by Izod, Paris, 1930 - George Hoyningen-Huene—Horst/Richard and Allison Roeder/J. Paul Getty Museum
Bathing Suits by Izod, Paris, 1930George Hoyningen-Huene—Horst/Richard and Allison Roeder/J. Paul Getty Museum
Black Evening Dress in Flight, New York, 1963 - Hiro—J. Paul Getty Museum
Black Evening Dress in Flight, New York, 1963Hiro—J. Paul Getty Museum
Renée, "The New Look of Dior," Place de la Concorde, Paris, August 1947 - Richard Avedon—Richard Avedon Foundation/J. Paul Getty Museum
Renée, "The New Look of Dior," Place de la Concorde, Paris, August 1947Richard Avedon—Richard Avedon Foundation/J. Paul Getty Museum
The Latin Connection, 1982 - Jamel Shabazz—J. Paul Getty Museum
The Latin Connection, 1982Jamel Shabazz—J. Paul Getty Museum
Kate Moss, 1994 - Glen Luchford—J. Paul Getty Museum
Kate Moss, 1994Glen Luchford—J. Paul Getty Museum
Diana Newman, 1966 - Neal Barr—J. Paul Getty Museum
Diana Newman, 1966Neal Barr—J. Paul Getty Museum
Yohji Yamamoto, Autumn/Winter, 1995 - David Sims—J. Paul Getty Museum
Yohji Yamamoto, Autumn/Winter, 1995David Sims—J. Paul Getty Museum
Untitled, for Charles Jourdan, Spring 1977 - Guy Bourdin—Guy Bourdin Estate/J. Paul Getty Museum
Untitled, for Charles Jourdan, Spring 1977Guy Bourdin—Guy Bourdin Estate/J. Paul Getty Museum
Sveta for Hussein Chalayan, 2000 - Sarah Moon—J. Paul Getty Museum
Sveta for Hussein Chalayan, 2000Sarah Moon—J. Paul Getty Museum
Model Wearing a Gown by Augustabernard, 1936 - Man Ray—Man Ray Trust ARS-ADAGP/J. Paul Getty Museum
Model Wearing a Gown by Augustabernard, 1936Man Ray—Man Ray Trust ARS-ADAGP/J. Paul Getty Museum
The Dress-Lamp Tree, England, 2002 - Tim Walker—Steven and Catherine Fink/The J. Paul Getty Museum
The Dress-Lamp Tree, England, 2002Tim Walker—Steven and Catherine Fink/The J. Paul Getty Museum
Fashion is Indestructible, London, 1941 - Cecil Beaton—Condé Nast/Victoria and Albert Museum/J. Paul Getty Museum
Fashion is Indestructible, London, 1941Cecil Beaton—Condé Nast/Victoria and Albert Museum/J. Paul Getty Museum
Style Profile, Ni’ma Ford, December 22, 2011 - Scott Schuman, The Sartorialist—Danziger Gallery/J. Paul Getty Museum
Style Profile, Ni’ma Ford, December 22, 2011Scott Schuman, The Sartorialist—Danziger Gallery/J. Paul Getty Museum
Bettina and Frances McLaughlin-Gill, New York, 1950 - Gordon Parks—Gordon Parks Foundation/J. Paul Getty Museum
Bettina and Frances McLaughlin-Gill, New York, 1950Gordon Parks—Gordon Parks Foundation/J. Paul Getty Museum
Guinevere in Black Dress by Yohji Yamamoto, Paris, 1996 - Paolo Roversi—J. Paul Getty Museum
Guinevere in Black Dress by Yohji Yamamoto, Paris, 1996Paolo Roversi—J. Paul Getty Museum
Woman Examining Man, Saint-Tropez, 1975 - Helmut Newton—Helmut Newton Estate/J. Paul Getty Museum
Woman Examining Man, Saint-Tropez, 1975Helmut Newton—Helmut Newton Estate/J. Paul Getty Museum
The Mainbocher Corset, Paris, 1939 - Horst P. Horst—Condé Nast/J. Paul Getty Museum
The Mainbocher Corset, Paris, 1939Horst P. Horst—Condé Nast/J. Paul Getty Museum
Miss M, 1988 - Jean-Baptiste Mondino—M+B Gallery/J. Paul Getty Museum
Miss M, 1988Jean-Baptiste Mondino—M+B Gallery/J. Paul Getty Museum
Icons of Style: A Century of Fashion Photography, 1911-2011 is on view June 26-October 21, 2018 at the J. Paul Getty Museum, Getty Center.
Kara Milstein is an associate photo editor at TIME Magazine. Follow her on Instagram.
Cady Lang is a reporter at TIME. Follow her on Twitter.