Business: Collars

In Philadelphia last week, one John B. Bolton, superintendent at John Bromley & Sons, Inc. (laces, carpets) ate his breakfast with a leisureliness that masked a new gusto while Mrs. Bolton methodically sorted soiled clothes for the electric washing machine. Both tried to act as they had regularly done all the years of their marriage. But their red-headed daughter, Eliza May, for three months bedridden with a nervous breakdown, was openly joyful. Now she could go traveling for her health, for Father had just become a millionaire.

John B. Bolton, expert in fabrics, invented the cloth out of which semisoft collars are made. Then there was John M. Van Heusen, who vainly tried to sell the material to collar manufacturers until one day he talked to Isaac (“Iky”) Phillips, a shirt manufacturer. Mr. Phillips arranged to give Mr. Van Heusen a royalty and had his Phillips, Jones Co. make up a job lot of the new collars.

A new fashion in men’s wear was thereby established. The mark of the businessman, the sign of his dignity, had been the stiff collar. Now the semisoft collar took its place on half the necks of the U. S. It was comfortable, and wives could launder it themselves.

The collar manufacturers whom Mr. Van Heusen had solicited were surprised at this quick sweep to popularity. So, no laggards, they at once produced semisoft collars of goods like the Van Heusen material. He sued them for infringement of patents and got $3,000,000 upon compromise. John B. Bolton expected to receive 30% of this sum for his work on the fabric. He got nothing, sued. Last week there was another compromise, whereby Mr. Bolton received more than $1,000,000from Mr. Van Heusen.

During the last 15 years the U. S. collar industry has become highly concentrated. Whereas in 1910 there were 35 manufacturers, there now are but 10 concerns, whose annual business totals $25,000,000,* half in stiff collars, half in soft. Cluttt, Peabody’s Arrow collars are the best sellers—$15,000,000 yearly. Then comes the Van Heusen brand—$5,000,000. George P. Ide Co. is third. (Ninety per cent of U. S. collars are made at Troy, N. Y.).

*The closely related shirt business totals $200,000,000 yearly.