June 30, 2016 8:31 AM EDT

According to RateBeer.com, the world’s top beer is not in the German hills or at a Belgian abbey but down a rural road in tiny Greensboro Bend, Vt. (pop. 232). There, Shaun Hill, 37, turns out small batches at Hill Farmstead Brewery, on the site of his grandfather’s old dairy farm. “When you don’t have a long-standing history,” he says, “it encourages you to be creative.”

This appears in the July 11, 2016 issue of TIME.

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