Two events define 1940s fashion more than any others. The first was the beginning of World War II, in 1939. The second was its end, six years and one day later. American trends in the decade can be distinctly divided into those influenced by the changes brought by war—in particular the rationing of materials and the increase in women’s participation in the workforce—and those inspired by the freedom of post-war peace.
By the end of 1942, materials like wool and nylon had joined sugar and coffee on the growing list of rationed goods. Leather shoes would follow suit the next year, and Americans were strongly urged to donate scrap metal to the war effort. As a result, the silhouettes de rigueur at the beginning of the decade were essentially frozen in time, and fashion entered a no-frills period. (Quite literally—ruffles were among a list of details, including extra buttons and pockets, eliminated during times of austerity.)
As a growing number of women entered the workforce to fill posts vacated by men at war, the popularity of pants skyrocketed—in part because factory work required the range of motion afforded by trousers, in part because nylon had been diverted from the manufacturing of stockings to the creation of parachutes. Many women sported tailored suits with squared shoulders and narrow waists, sometimes repurposing the suits that languished in their husbands’ closets. And simple styles ruled the day as European fashions ceased to be available stateside.
But the tide shifted following the war—not all at once, but gradually—as Paris resumed its place as the headquarters of couture and Christian Dior’s “New Look” reintroduced more traditionally feminine styles. Utility gave way to softness as square shoulders were rounded and slim skirts became fuller. And the late ‘40s introduced a newly defined segment of the population, and with it a whole new style icon: the teenager.
Liz Ronk, who edited this gallery, is the Photo Editor for LIFE.com. Follow her on Twitter @lizabethronk.
March 4, 1940 issue of LIFE magazine.George Karger—LIFE MagazineApril 22, 1940 issue of LIFE magazine.Peter Stackpole—LIFE MagazineMay 13, 1940 issue of LIFE magazine.Alfred Eisenstaedt—LIFE MagazineOctober 21, 1940 issue of LIFE magazine.Gjon Mili—LIFE MagazineJanuary 13, 1941 issue of LIFE magazine.George Karger—LIFE MagazineMarch 24, 1941 issue of LIFE magazine.Herbert Gehr—LIFE MagazineApril 7, 1941 issue of LIFE magazine.Gjon Mili—LIFE MagazineMay 19, 1941 issue of LIFE magazine.Herbert Gehr—LIFE MagazineApril 20, 1942 issue of LIFE magazine.Nina Leen—LIFE MagazineMay 11, 1942 issue of LIFE magazine.Nina Leen—LIFE MagazineJuly 20, 1942 issue of LIFE magazine.Walter Sanders—LIFE MagazineAugust 24, 1942 issue of LIFE magazine.Nina Leen—LIFE MagazineOctober 5, 1942 issue of LIFE magazine.Philippe Halsman—LIFE MagazineNovember 16, 1942 issue of LIFE magazine.Walter Sanders—LIFE MagazineMarch 1, 1943 issue of LIFE magazine.Philippe Halsman—LIFE MagazineMay 3, 1943 issue of LIFE magazine.Philippe Halsman—LIFE MagazineSeptember 13, 1943 issue of LIFE magazine.Nina Leen—LIFE MagazineOctober 11, 1943 issue of LIFE magazine.Philippe Halsman—LIFE MagazineNovember 15, 1943 issue of LIFE magazine.Walter Sanders—LIFE MagazineDecember 6, 1943 issue of LIFE magazine.Walter Sanders—LIFE MagazineMay 8, 1944 issue of LIFE magazine.Philippe Halsman—LIFE MagazineJuly 17, 1944 issue of LIFE magazine.Nina Leen—LIFE MagazineAugust 28, 1944 issue of LIFE magazine.Zoltan S. Farkas—LIFE MagazineOctober 9, 1944 issue of LIFE magazine.George Karger—LIFE MagazineJanuary 8, 1945 issue of LIFE magazine.Nina Leen—LIFE MagazineFebruary 19, 1945 issue of LIFE magazine.Alfred Eisenstaedt—LIFE MagazineJuly 9, 1945 issue of LIFE magazine.Ewing Krainin—LIFE MagazineOctober 15, 1945 issue of LIFE magazine.Alfred Eisenstaedt—LIFE MagazineNovember 19, 1945 issue of LIFE magazine.Nina Leen—LIFE MagazineDecember 10, 1945 issue of LIFE magazine.Philippe Halsman—LIFE MagazineJanuary 14, 1946 issue of LIFE magazine.Philippe Halsman—LIFE MagazineApril 15, 1946 issue of LIFE magazine.Ralph Crane—LIFE MagazineJune 17, 1946 issue of LIFE magazine.Lisa Larsen—LIFE MagazineOctober 14, 1946 issue of LIFE magazine.Ralph Crane—LIFE MagazineNovember 18, 1946 issue of LIFE magazine.Loomis Dean—LIFE MagazineJanuary 13, 1947 issue of LIFE magazine.Philippe Halsman—LIFE MagazineMarch 31, 1947 issue of LIFE magazine.Philippe Halsman—LIFE MagazineMay 5, 1947 issue of LIFE magazine.Andre De Dienes—LIFE MagazineJune 23, 1947 issue of LIFE magazine.Philippe Halsman—LIFE MagazineSeptember 22, 1947 issue of LIFE magazine.Nina Leen—LIFE MagazineJanuary 12, 1948 issue of LIFE magazine.Philippe Halsman—LIFE MagazineMarch 29, 1948 issue of LIFE magazine.Sharland—LIFE MagazineJune 7, 1948 issue of LIFE magazine.Lisa Larsen—LIFE MagazineOctober 18, 1948 issue of LIFE magazine.Gordon Parks—LIFE MagazineNovember 29, 1948 issue of LIFE magazine.Nina Leen—LIFE MagazineJanuary 17, 1949 issue of LIFE magazine.Leonard McCombe—LIFE MagazineApril 25, 1949 issue of LIFE magazine.Gordon Parks—LIFE MagazineJune 6, 1949 issue of LIFE magazine.Lisa Larsen—LIFE MagazineAugust 29, 1949 issue of LIFE magazine.Philippe Halsman—LIFE MagazineNovember 14, 1949.Arnold Newman—LIFE Magazine
