By Julia Lull
Laird Hamilton knows what it’s like to float above water. The big-wave-riding surfer has for years been pushing the limits of just how much water he can take on. With jet skis towing him into areas surfers usually can’t ride, he’s conquered 80-foot waves in places like Tahiti.
“When you understand the energy that’s packed into a big wave and you see one coming… there’s very few things that you will do on this planet that demand the kind of attention that that demands,” Hamilton says. “There’s just nothing like it. It’s magic.”
Watch his story above.
More Must-Reads from TIME
- Why Trump’s Message Worked on Latino Men
- What Trump’s Win Could Mean for Housing
- The 100 Must-Read Books of 2024
- Sleep Doctors Share the 1 Tip That’s Changed Their Lives
- Column: Let’s Bring Back Romance
- What It’s Like to Have Long COVID As a Kid
- FX’s Say Nothing Is the Must-Watch Political Thriller of 2024
- Merle Bombardieri Is Helping People Make the Baby Decision
Write to Julia Lull at julia.lull@time.com