See Scenes of Daily Life in a Ukrainian City Marked by War

3 minute read

French photographer Jerome Sessini has spent the last 18 months covering the unrest in Ukraine. He watched the rise of the antigovernment protests in late 2013, paralyzing Kiev, after the country pivoted toward Russia under the impulsion of its then-President Viktor Yanukovych. He was at Independence Square when dozens of people were shot by snipers, and he witnessed the birth of the war in the east as pro-Russian forces fanned through the region. And last July, he was also on the scene when Malaysia Airlines Flight 17 was downed by a missile, killing nearly 300 innocents.

Sessini has returned to the east several times since then, each time documenting the changing of a society in the country’s industrial heartland and its people as the conflict rages.

At least 6,400 people have been killed in Ukraine, the United Nations recently noted, and more than 1.3 million have been displaced. Since the rebels took Debaltseve in February, fears have steadily risen that Mariupol, a key economic and transport hub, would be next. If so, it would establish a land bridge between Russia and Crimea, the province it annexed in early 2014.

In late May, Sessini arrived to Mariupol, a major port city under government control along the Sea of Azov. Earlier, he had photographed on the pro-Russian side. This time, for two weeks, he opted to remain on the predominantly Russian-speaking government-controlled side. He went in with two civilian volunteers—who were bringing food, clothing and electronics to build a drone—to see how the other side is living.

This near-certain upcoming battle has had a big impact on Mariupol, which has a population of about 460,000. “The city looks like it’s at a standstill,” Sessini tells TIME. He found a lot of shops were closed, restaurants and bars were empty, with streets largely deserted by 8PM. “You can feel the tension,” he says. “You feel this kind of sadness.”

During his visit, Sessini aimed to show daily life. He spent a fair amount of time on the tramway, turning his lens toward the souls on board and then out the windows at a city hanging in the balance as fighting rages nearby. He met a lot of young volunteers fighting on the Ukrainian side. Some of them, he was told, had been either police officers or demonstrators during the Maidan protests but were now working toward a common goal against the pro-Russian forces that fanned out across the east. Sessini worked with a translator, as many of the people he encountered weren’t naturally open with him, a foreigner. That lack of trust, he understands, is a natural part of conflict.

His photos are a powerful and tragic testament to the sea change in Ukraine. “I’ve seen the split go deeper and deeper,” Sessini says. He plans to return later in the summer—what he expects then, he’s not quite sure. He admits there is a realization among locals, as fighting has neared over the past few months, that their home city is a strategic target. They understand an assault is likely to come sooner or later. For some of them, he found, all they can do is wait.

Jerome Sessini is a French photojournalist represented by Magnum Photos.

Kira Pollack, who edited this photo essay, is TIME’s Director of Photography. Follow her on Twitter @kirapollack.

Andrew Katz is a former TIME homepage editor and reporter covering international affairs. Follow him on Twitter @katz.

Mariupol
After several months of training, new recruits of Ukraine’s National Guard swear during a ceremonial oath. Zaporizhia, Ukraine. May 23, 2015.Jerome Sessini—Magnum Photos
Mariupol
A restaurant that would otherwise be packed sites empty on the beach. Mariupol, Ukraine. May 24, 2015. Jerome Sessini—Magnum Photos
Mariupol
A woman and two children on what is normally the area’s most crowded beach. Mariupol, Ukraine. May 24, 2015. Jerome Sessini—Magnum Photos
Mariupol
The international airport has been turned into a military base of Ukraine’s National Guard. Mariupol, Ukraine. May 24, 2015.Jerome Sessini—Magnum Photos
Mariupol
Natalia Vynokurova, a former pianist who used to live in Russia, is jobless and survives selling dishes in the street that she prepares. Mariupol, Ukraine. May 26, 2015.Jerome Sessini—Magnum Photos
A square in the downtown area where the statue of Lenin was removed. Mariupol, Ukraine. May 28, 2015. Jerome Sessini—Magnum Photos
Mariupol
A view of people waiting at the main station of the tramway in the downtown area, as seen through a window on the tramway. Mariupol, Ukraine. May 28, 2015. Jerome Sessini—Magnum Photos
Two elderly people walk, as seen through a window on the tramway. Mariupol, Ukraine. May 28, 2015.Jerome Sessini—Magnum Photos
Mariupol
A woman on the tramway downtown. Mariupol, Ukraine. May 27, 2015. Jerome Sessini—Magnum Photos
Mariupol
A view of the Ilyich Iron and Steel Works complex, a major factory and steel producer. Mariupol, Ukraine, May 29, 2015. Jerome Sessini—Magnum Photos
Mariupol
A tropical poster hangs on a wall of a control room at the Ilyich Iron and Steel Works complex. Mariupol, Ukraine. May 29, 2015.Jerome Sessini—Magnum Photos
Two men leave work after eight hours, via a shuttle bus out of the plant. Mariupol, Ukraine. May 29, 2015. Jerome Sessini—Magnum Photos
Mariupol
A damaged container on a pier near the port, which is closed and held by the Ukrainian army. Mariupol, Ukraine. May 29, 2015.Jerome Sessini—Magnum Photos
Mariupol
Mariupol beach on the Azov sea, Mariupol, Ukraine, May 29, 2015. Jerome Sessini—Magnum Photos
Mariupol
A student plays piano for her teacher during a year-end review at the music college. Mariupol, Ukraine. June 2, 2015. Jerome Sessini—Magnum Photos
Mariupol
A view of the downtown area. Mariupol, Ukraine. May 31, 2015. Jerome Sessini—Magnum Photos
Mariupol
A woman sits alone at a trendy bar after a heavy metal concert. Mariupol, Ukraine. May 31, 2015.Jerome Sessini—Magnum Photos
Mariupol
A woman and boy at a bar after a heavy metal concert. Mariupol, Ukraine. May 31, 2015.Jerome Sessini—Magnum Photos
Mariupol
A drunk man sleeps in a park in the downtown area. Mariupol, Ukraine. May 31, 2015. Jerome Sessini—Magnum Photos
Mariupol
A view of the downtown area, where people are watching animation for Children's Day. Mariupol, Ukraine. May 31, 2015. Jerome Sessini—Magnum Photos
Mariupol
A Ukrainian soldier walks carefully inside a building that is targeted by pro-Russian forces on the frontline near Mariupol. Shyrokyne, Ukraine. June 3, 2015.Jerome Sessini—Magnum Photos

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