Tel Aviv Beach: One Photographer’s Enduring Oasis

2 minute read

“Every Jew has two requests of God: a place in paradise in the next world, and a place on the Tel Aviv beach in this world,” wrote Sholem Asch, the Polish-born novelist, in 1937. Stretching five kilometers from its southern tip at the old port city of Jaffa to the new cluster of high rise hotels and condos at its northern end, Tel Aviv’s beach (or Tayelet as it’s called in Hebrew) probably looked a little different in Asch’s day. But I think of him as part of a long legacy of both travelers and natives who have sought refuge in those sands from Israel’s political dramas, which can gush like a Texas oil well. At the beach, I discovered Israel in all its vitality, without the conflict.

I have been photographing in Israel for almost ten years. The beach is where I go to escape. I walk the full expanse of the shoreline, stopping every few feet to capture a moment. Others are there to escape, too: an eclectic mix of people—old, young, skinny, zaftig and maimed—interact there unlike anywhere else. Arab and Orthodox Jewish women, covered nearly head-to-toe, splash ecstatically in the waves. Suntanned Israeli men parade like peacocks in tiny speedos and large jewelry. Bespectacled, pre-pubescent Americans on teen tours, relatively new Russian emigrants, even newer Ethiopians, and the newest residents—exhausted Philippino or Chinese foreign workers. Everyone is there, and for the same same purpose: to take a break.

This is a nation filled with serious conversations and serious consequences, bad omens from the past and dire warnings of the future. But not on this sliver of sand. Only Tel Aviv’s beach has that unique ability to free Israelis from the yoke of daily turmoil, letting them frolic, flaunt and laugh—a joyful, if temporary, exhalation under a pure, blue sky. The beach, I’ve come to realize, is where the country comes to breathe.

Gillian Laub’s book Testimony, which features portraits of Israelis and Palestinians, was published in 2007. She is currently at work on a book and documentary about the American South.

In the decade that Gillian Laub has been photographing in Israel, the Tel Aviv beach remains her favorite place of escape. Among the eclectic group of beach goers is Oxana, 35, who emigrated from the Ukraine as a teenager. She survived a suicide bombing in 2004, but became paralyzed two years later in a roller-blading accident. Her son regularly takes her to a spot on the beach that has a special ramp for handicap access.Gillian Laub
Aster and Meshy became best friends during their service in the army. Gillian Laub
Aharon, who emigrated from Ethiopia, changed his name to make it sound more Israeli.Gillian Laub
Moses, who was born in the Tehran airport as his parents were emigrating from Iran to Israel, searches the beach every evening for coins and jewelry.Gillian Laub
Oded and Michael play matkot—the Israeli form of beach tennis—almost daily on the beach.Gillian Laub
Stav comes to the beach each week from Ariel, a city 25 miles away. She finished her military service last year and is now studying architecture.Gillian Laub
A couple from Ramat Hasharon, a town about 20 minutes away. Gillian Laub
Ilan, photographed in his favorite post-work spot.Gillian Laub
Leopard-print bathing suits were a very popular trend among beach visitors this year.Gillian Laub
Malka sits with a snack of edamame on the beach.Gillian Laub
Galina, who emigrated from Uzbekistan, comes to the same spot every day at sunset. Gillian Laub
Fatima brings her children to the beach at sunset.Gillian Laub
An Israeli family poses for pictures, under the impression that they are meeting a celebrity.Gillian Laub
JJ, who emigrated from Sudan, says, because of the way he dresses, many Israelis think he's a famous rap star.Gillian Laub
Israeli teenage boys get in shape as part their pre-military training.Gillian Laub
Nono, originally from Belgium, fell in love with an Israeli man. They now have two daughters and split their time between Tel Aviv and Brussels. Gillian Laub
Two couples have a party on the beach.Gillian Laub
A quiet spot on the northern side of the beach.Gillian Laub
Halima, whose mother emigrated from Liberia five years ago, comes to the beach every Friday with her parents and four sisters. Gillian Laub
Amalia, 62, has been coming to the Tel Aviv beach her entire life.Gillian Laub
Raphael is a regular at the gay beach.Gillian Laub
Since emigrating from Belarus, Dina has become one of the beach's regular visitors.Gillian Laub
Ruth sits at the same spot on the beach every day. Always carefully color-coordinating her hat, sunglasses, bag and bathing suit, the beach serves as her fashion runway.Gillian Laub
Shlomi tries to leave Jerusalem as often as possible, so he can come to the beach and think.Gillian Laub
Yossi, 78, likes to come to the beach twice a day, at sunrise and sunset.Gillian Laub
Shlomi, a lifeguard, patrols at his usual spot.Gillian Laub
Lior says she makes the journey from Eilat, almost four hours away, because this is her favorite beach.Gillian Laub
Tanya, visiting from Moscow, is at the beach with family who immigrated to Israel.Gillian Laub
Yehoshua, 57, originally from Budapest, is a regular matkot player on the Tel Aviv beach.Gillian Laub
Ayala and her family emigrated from Ethiopia when she was two years old.Gillian Laub
Elana with her son, whose favorite part of going to the beach is dipping his feet in the water.Gillian Laub
Beach goers tan at the gay beach.Gillian Laub
An Elvis impersonator poses for a picture in the sand.Gillian Laub
Dahlia, 28, meets up with old army friends at the beach.Gillian Laub
Lee arrives at the boardwalk straight from a government protest.Gillian Laub
Adi is a frequent matkot player.Gillian Laub
Shlomi visits family in Tel Aviv. His father says the only thing in the world that's missing from their home city, Jerusalem, is the beach.Gillian Laub
Aliza, who appeared on the cover of my book Testimony nine years ago, has traveled the world visiting gorgeous beaches. None of which, she says, are as special as the Tel Aviv beach.Gillian Laub
Women watch the sunset while standing at the southernmost edge of the beach near Jaffa.Gillian Laub

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