An Irish Photographer Comes Home

2 minute read

Beyond the clichés of Irish culture—the Irish affair with booze; their feisty reputation; and a proud poetic legacy—exists a dynamic country in transition.

“This country has undergone cataclysmic changes,” Irish photographer Seamus Murphy tells TIME. “It’s not just pink-faced people in a two-dimensional world. A lot of money has come in and out, and a couple of generations of people are entering, but the comedy, magic and lawlessness that is Ireland persists.”

Seamus Murphy’s latest book, released in Europe ahead of the 100th anniversary of the 1916 armed uprising against British rule, offers a more nuanced look at modern-day Ireland—from the busy streets of Dublin to the immigrant-filled suburbs, wilder western shores, and new and aging landmarks.

Murphy, who considers himself an outsider to his home country, recalls a “frustrating” coming of age in a country begat by revolutionaries. “With every book, film or piece of music I digested the world beckoned and the road lead elsewhere,” he wrote in book’s foreword. “I couldn’t wait to leave.”

At 22, he set his sight on America, before continuing on to the Middle East, Asia, Africa and Latin America. The idea to photograph Ireland didn’t crystallize until 2012—on an eight-hour night trek through regime-held villages in Syria—when he remembered meeting Irish veterans. “I had traveled a lot, shooting pictures and listening to stories in other people’s countries. What about looking at my own country?” he wrote. “Now, over 30 years since leaving; an exile, escapee and outsider, I could try again.”

In 2014, Murphy began capturing images of Ireland. “I was looking for what often goes unnoticed and unrecorded, what moved and surprised me,” he explained. “Beyond all the revision, myths, politics and spin there should be some room left for dreams and wonder. After all, looking up at the stars on a clear night over County Roscommon can get a person thinking.”

Seamus Murphy is an Irish photographer who lives in London. He is the recipient of seven World Press Photo awards.

Michelle Molloy, who edited this photo essay, is a senior international photo editor at TIME.

Rachel Lowry is a writer and contributor for TIME LightBox. Follow her on Twitter and Instagram.

Hebron Road, Co.Kilkenny. A young boy from the Traveller community near his home off the Hebron Road in Kilkenny. Travellers, as individuals and as a group, experience a high level of prejudice and exclusion in Irish society.
Hebron Road, Co.Kilkenny. A young boy from the Traveller community near his home off the Hebron Road in Kilkenny. Travellers, as individuals and as a group, experience a high level of prejudice and exclusion in Irish society. Seamus Murphy—Panos
County Roscommon Tyre marks deliberately burned into the road by a joyrider.
County Roscommon. Tyre marks deliberately burned into the road by a joyrider. Seamus Murphy—Panos
Tinahely. Co. Wicklow Contenders for the Wicklow Rose at the Tinahely Agricultural Show. The winning Rose will represent County Wicklow in the Rose of Tralee Festival.
Tinahely. Co. Wicklow. Contenders for the Wicklow Rose at the Tinahely Agricultural Show. The winning Rose will represent County Wicklow in the Rose of Tralee Festival. Seamus Murphy—Panos
Ballaghaderreen, Co. Roscommon. Children of South Asian origin on a residential street.
Ballaghaderreen, Co. Roscommon. Children of South Asian origin on a residential street.Seamus Murphy—Panos
Tuam. Co. Galway Huntsman of the North Galway Foxhounds John Pickering outside Bermingham House before the sending off of the hounds.
Tuam. Co. Galway. Huntsman of the North Galway Foxhounds John Pickering outside Bermingham House before the sending off of the hounds. Seamus Murphy—Panos
Ballinastack. Co. Galway. Hunting with the North Galway Foxhounds.unting with the North Galway Foxhounds at Ballinastack. Co. Galway
Ballinastack. Co. Galway. Hunting with the North Galway Foxhounds.Seamus Murphy—Panos
Dundalk. Co. Louth. Security attempting to catch a racegoer who was taking his clothes off to the music of a Dixie Jazz band at the Dundalk Races.
Dundalk. Co. Louth. Security attempting to catch a racegoer who was taking his clothes off to the music of a Dixie Jazz band at the Dundalk Races.Seamus Murphy—Panos
Dublin. A statue of Jesus and Mary in a window on Clarendon Street.
Dublin. A statue of Jesus and Mary in a window on Clarendon Street.Seamus Murphy—Panos
Dublin. Men drinking and socializing in a bar on Capel Street.
Dublin. Dancers at PantiBar on Capel Street, one of the country’s best known gay venues. The bar was opened by gay rights activist and drag performer Rory O’Neill AKA Panti Bliss. Same-sex marriage became legal in Ireland from Nov. 16, 2015 after a national referendum on May 22, 2015.Seamus Murphy—Panos
Ballycroy. Co. Mayo A young girl in a bog she and her father have been working, known locally as turf cutting. Recently enacted European Union regulations, as well as Irish law, ban the collection of turf from 53 peat-bog conservation areas, despite the centuries-old tradition of burning peat as a heat source.
Ballycroy. Co. Mayo. A young girl in a bog she and her father have been working, known locally as turf cutting. Recently enacted European Union regulations, as well as Irish law, ban the collection of turf from 53 peat-bog conservation areas, despite the centuries-old tradition of burning peat as a heat source. Seamus Murphy—Panos
Curragh. Co. Kildare Two ladies at the Irish Derby at The Curragh Racecourse.
Curragh. Co. Kildare. Two ladies at the Irish Derby at The Curragh Racecourse. Seamus Murphy—Panos
Ballymun. The Joseph Plunkett Tower in Ballymun, in north Dublin was the last remaining of one of Dublin’s most famous housing projects, its demolition began in September 2015. Seven towers were initially built for social housing in the 1960s and named for the executed 1916 rebels; Pearce, Connolly, Ceannt, Clarke, MacDermott, McDonagh and Plunkett,
Ballymun. The Joseph Plunkett Tower in Ballymun, in north Dublin was the last remaining of one of Dublin’s most famous housing projects, its demolition began in September 2015. Seven towers were initially built for social housing in the 1960s and named for the executed 1916 rebels; Pearce, Connolly, Ceannt, Clarke, MacDermott, McDonagh and Plunkett, Seamus Murphy—Panos
North Esk. Co. Cork. The shaft of a lamppost is covered by the growth of a wild shrub.
North Esk. Co. Cork. The shaft of a lamppost is covered by the growth of a wild shrub.Seamus Murphy—Panos
Knock. County Mayo Helpers at Knock, a place of Catholic pilgrimage, who fame is derived from the Knock Shrine at which the Virgin Mary is alleged to have appeared on 21 August 1879.
Knock, Co. Mayo Helpers at Knock, a place of Catholic pilgrimage after an alleged apparition of the Virgin Mary on Aug. 21, 1879.Seamus Murphy—Panos
Grange. Killinick. Co.Wexford A man displays his horsemanship by riding backwards over a steep hedge during an afternoon with the Killinick Harriers Hunt Club.
Grange. Killinick. Co. Wexford. A man displays his horsemanship by riding backwards over a steep hedge during an afternoon with the Killinick Harriers Hunt Club. Seamus Murphy—Panos
Tuam. Co. Galway. A mother watches her two nephews playing for St. Croan’s (Roscommon) against Killanin (Galway) in the Connacht GAA Club Intermediate Football Championship Final at Tuam Stadium. St Croan’s won.
Tuam. Co. Galway. A mother watches her two nephews playing for St. Croan’s (Roscommon) against Killanin (Galway) in the Connacht GAA Club Intermediate Football Championship Final at Tuam Stadium. St Croan’s won. Seamus Murphy—Panos
Phibsboro. Dublin A young girl looks out on the street.
Phibsboro. Dublin A young girl looks out on the streetSeamus Murphy—Panos
Ballinteskin Hill. Co. Wicklow A dog short of breath after herding sheep in the fields at Ballinteskin Hill. Co. Wicklow
Ballinteskin Hill. Co. Wicklow A dog short of breath after herding sheep in the fields at Ballinteskin Hill. Seamus Murphy—Panos
Dunmanway, Co. Cork People drinking pints of Guinness beer at a bar.
Dunmanway, Co. Cork. People drinking pints of Guinness beer at a bar.Seamus Murphy—Panos
Dublin. Members of the Philosophical society attending a debating contest at Trinity College,
Dublin. Members of the Philosophical society attending a debating contest at Trinity College, Seamus Murphy—Panos
Navan, Co. Meath Women, from a family of South Asian origin, cooking a meal in the kitchen while a toddler plays on the floor.
Navan, Co. Meath. Women, from a family of South Asian origin, cooking a meal in the kitchen, while a toddler plays on the floor.Seamus Murphy—Panos
Dublin. Two women in a bar on Middle Abbey Street.
Dublin. Two women in a bar on Middle Abbey Street.Seamus Murphy—Panos
Barnaderg. Co. Galway. A dilapidated keep.
Barnaderg. Co. Galway. A dilapidated keep.Seamus Murphy—Panos
Dublin. A trans person in a club doorway on Capel Street.
Dublin. A trans person in a club doorway on Capel Street.Seamus Murphy—Panos
Co.Dublin A train passes by the sea at Monkstown.
Co.Dublin. A train passes by the sea at Monkstown. Seamus Murphy—Panos
Killarney. Co. Kerry. An Irish dancer practices for an international competition.
Killarney. Co. Kerry. An Irish dancer practices for an international competition.Seamus Murphy—Panos
Carrowbey. Co. Roscommon. A clear night sky over Carrowbey.
Carrowbey. Co. Roscommon. A clear night sky over Carrowbey. Seamus Murphy—Panos

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