80/20

When 80/20 reopened after a complete renovation at the tail end of 2018, chefs Napol Jantraget and Saki Hoshino didn’t just show off its extra seating and open kitchen. The couple introduced their cult following to a new tasting menu (nine courses at last count) that put the three-year-old restaurant on a par with longtime fine-dining stars. As casual as it is cutting-edge, 80/20 upends the traditional notion of a fancy Thai meal with friendly, not fussy, service; progressive wine pairings; and strictly local ingredients from the kingdom’s farmers and fishermen. Expect to pay around $100 a person ($150 if you want five glasses of wine) and regret nothing. —Andrew Parks