Nyum Bai
Eric Wolfinger

Nyum Bai

Oakland, California

It’s been just over 1½ years since Nyum Bai opened, and the Cambodian street-food spot keeps accruing accolades: in February, after being lauded by food media, the restaurant was named a James Beard Award semifinalist. Nyum Bai is a lifelong dream of chef and owner Nite Yun, who was born in a refugee camp in Thailand. She showcases her family’s cuisine in noodle soups and stews that combine hearty ingredients like pork belly with the crunch of raw vegetables. Yun says her mission is to “share a culture that nobody really knew about”—as patrons enjoy a soundtrack of “golden ­era” Khmer music. —Rachel E. Greenspan

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