Located beside a tiny cemetery at the top of a hill, Hotel Baskuca is walkable to everywhere a traveler would want to go in Sarajevo’s cobblestoned Baščaršija (old town), including the Ottoman-style Sebilj Fountain, monumental Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque, Latin Bridge (]site of Archduke Franz Ferdinand’s assassination), the small but moving War Childhood Museum and Kazandžiluk, a.k.a. Coppersmith Street, where artisan hammers clang day and night. More importantly, the boutique inn, which opened last summer, is operating at a level of luxury rarely seen in the war-scarred Balkans—and with far more personality than you’d find in one of the chain hotels anchoring the business district. Bosnian craftsmanship is on display at every turn, from handmade walnut vases with strategically placed blooms to colorful ceramics framed by arched alcoves. Daily breakfast includes a princely spread of Bosnian cheeses, dried beef, homemade jams, and flaky burek, served indoors or out. For the best views of Sarajevo’s clay-tiled rooftops and gelato-colored sunsets, request a top-floor suite with pop-up skylights—a tranquil retreat after a full day’s immersion in the region’s history (Meet Bosnia’s guided walking tours are excellent).