Den

It’s no surprise the son of a geisha should master the Japanese principle of omotenashi, or selfless hospitality. But don’t expect stuffy formality at Zaiyu Hasegawa’s Den, which recently moved to a larger location and reclaimed its second Michelin star. In Hasegawa’s playful repertoire: “Dentucky” fried chicken wings in a container bearing his face and a salad with emoji-shaped carrots, hiding an edible ant or two. —Joseph Hincks