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# On a Miso Mission

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![](https://static.time.com/v3/assets/bltea6093859af6183b/bltfb53322a7f9fa3f8/6a45c4b560118c38c489ef7b/Page_9_image_1_(2%29.png?branch=production&width=1200&quality=75&auto=webp&crop=3:2%2Coffset-x0.00%2Coffset-y0.00)

Marukome is bringing nearly 200 years of fermentation expertise to the forefront of modern global cuisine.

![](https://static.time.com/v3/assets/bltea6093859af6183b/bltc49df9904e564ed9/6a45c4d35fed027e29a47d16/Page_9_image_1_(2%29.png?branch=production&width=1200&quality=75&auto=webp)

Globalization of cuisine is far from a new phenomenon. From the Columbian Exchange to the East-meets-West fusions that gave rise to dishes like chicken tikka masala, bánh mì and California rolls, diners have long sought out new flavors. Put simply, dining culture has always evolved by borrowing from, adapting to and fusing with influences from abroad.

Within the global culinary sphere, miso is now taking on a leading role. The fermented soybean paste is central to Japan’s culinary identity, and while commonplace in miso soup found in restaurants across the globe, it is now embracing a new position as a versatile ingredient, packing a powerful combination of both nutrition and flavor. 

Marukome produces its finest miso in the Miasa Highlands of Nagano ▼

![](https://static.time.com/v3/assets/bltea6093859af6183b/blt84351cc5f4b8c316/6a45c500f51548dc3ac79be3/Page_9_image_2_(3%29.png?branch=production&width=1200&quality=75&auto=webp)

The history of miso in Japan dates back at least 1,300 years. During ancient times, the foodstuff was considered a valuable commodity, even being used to pay the salaries of the elite. Heian-era (794–1185) miso was far coarser than the varieties found today, yet it still provided many of the benefits associated with fermentation: a long shelf life even in warm temperatures, along with a valuable source of protein and microbiota in a diet that at the time largely consisted of rice.

Samurai warriors were known to carry portable rations of miso onto the battlefield, and as fermentation techniques spread across the country, a wide range of regional styles emerged. These ranged from sweet “white” miso varieties to darker, saltier “red” miso, with a whole spectrum in between. Preferences were often divided along geographic lines, a trend that largely continues to the present day.

 Along this centuries-long miso timeline, Marukome has risen to become the most prominent maker of this unique foodstuff. Founded in 1854 in Nagano Prefecture, a region blessed by cool climates and mountain springs, perfect for miso-making, Marukome is Japan’s preeminent leader in fermentation techniques. While many of their methods have remained unchanged over the years, including the painstaking method of producing _inaka_ miso with large wooden casks and heavy pressing stones, Marukome is also heavily involved at the cutting-edge of fermentation science, particularly as more people around the world seek nutritious, plant-based food. From being the first to adopt stackable square packaging to introducing dashi-infused miso to the market, allowing for soups to be quickly made, Marukome has built a reputation for industry “firsts.”

 “Our best-selling product, ‘Ryotei no Aji,’ launched in 1982, was driven by the late third-generation owner, Sataro Aoki. A true innovator, he achieved industry-first advancements in packaging, logistics and manufacturing methods,” said Marukome President Tokio Aoki. 

![](https://static.time.com/v3/assets/bltea6093859af6183b/blt51bb57f718f4fde2/6a45c5a378ebb72029708d64/Page_10_image_1.png?branch=production&width=1200&quality=75&auto=webp)

Koji is the foundation to making _amazake_, a traditional sweet beverage ▲ 

In more recent years, keeping with the theme of portability and convenience, the company was the first to introduce liquid and freeze-dried products to the market, a welcome addition as miso increasingly finds itself shipped around the world. With plant-based diets gaining traction in many regions, Aoki believes that the versality of miso has the potential to establish it as a common household ingredient worldwide.

“Miso is inherently a vegan product, a quality that has become a strong advantage as it expands into international markets. Consumers around the world are increasingly recognizing its value as a natural, additive-free food associated with a wide range of health benefits,” said Aoki. 

![](https://static.time.com/v3/assets/bltea6093859af6183b/blt06a6dd1ed6797ed7/6a45c64b78ebb770b0708d68/Page_10_image_2.png?branch=production&width=1200&quality=75&auto=webp)

Freeze-dried miso represents the latest evolution in versatility ▲

The process of making miso commonly starts with soybeans, salt and koji—an edible type of mold that gives miso its distinct umami flavor. Koji also plays a central role in a number of staple Japanese products, including soy sauce and sake, and through Marukome’s research, is now finding applications in entirely new areas. “Our koji amazake, a fermented beverage made from rice, has achieved a leading market share in Japan. Building on this foundation, we have introduced a special ‘Koji Barista Edition’ for cafes. Produced using a unique method, it is distinct from conventional rice milk, with excellent foaming quality, making it ideal for latte art,” said Aoki. 

The buzz surrounding this new barista-focused product is not limited to Japan, with professionals around the world praising its mouthfeel and subtle, natural sweetness. As plant-based milk alternatives become the new normal in coffee stores globally, Marukome sees this area as the next key step in unlocking the untapped potential of koji. “Our philosophy is simple: nothing added, nothing taken away—delivered in its purest form. That is the power of microorganisms and fermentation,” said Aoki.

Meat-free alternatives are made from nutritious, non-GMO soybeans ▼

![](https://static.time.com/v3/assets/bltea6093859af6183b/bltb2b767fdb266e665/6a45c80060118c4dba89ef89/Page_10_image_3.png?branch=production&width=1200&quality=75&auto=webp)

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