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# Where two rivers turn gold in a realm of wonder

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![](https://static.time.com/v3/assets/bltea6093859af6183b/blt1fa653b8f8a3f00b/6a4b52388b93e5651d5ad787/0476021A8B634073831C63678433ABC5.jpg?branch=production&width=1200&quality=75&auto=webp&crop=3:2)

_This content was paid for and prepared by China Daily, an official publication of the People's Republic of China. The TIME editorial and advertising departments were not involved in the creation of this content._

The Yellow River Stone Forest in Baiyin, Gansu province, is renowned for its towering stone pillars and rugged rock formations. PROVIDED TO CHINA DAILY

By DENG ZHANGYU and MA JINGNA

The Yellow River, China’s revered mother river, begins its journey on the snowcapped Qinghai-Tibet Plateau, flowing eastward with emerald clarity until it reaches the Loess Plateau in Gansu province. Here, at the threshold of this distinctive landscape, it meets the Taohe River, a major tributary, and undergoes a striking shift, taking on the golden hue that gives the river its name.

Just 90 minutes by road from Lanzhou, capital of Gansu, lies the Liujiaxia Reservoir in Yongjing in Linxia Hui autonomous prefecture, where the two rivers converge with dramatically different qualities. 

On summer mornings, when mist drifts across the basin, the Yellow River appears surprisingly serene — its broad expanse of clear water contradicting the common image of a turbulent, muddy flow. By contrast, the sediment-heavy Taohe River carries the unmistakable yellow hue of the Loess Plateau. 

The confluence creates a striking natural spectacle: a sharp dividing line between clear and turbid waters, a phenomenon locals compare to a yuanyang huoguo, a traditional Chinese hot pot vessel divided into two compartments, each with its own color. 

The best spot to enjoy this spectacle lies at the Benchigou viewing platform, a 15-minute drive from the confluence. Perched above the gorge, visitors enjoy a sweeping panorama: the Liujiaxia Bridge arching across the mountains, the merging currents of the two rivers flowing beneath, and the fiery-red Danxia formations stretching toward the horizon — a truly awe-inspiring vista.

In the distant crimson-hued mountains, a distinct dividing line is visible, where sediment from the riverbed meets soil carried from the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau. The erosion-carved gullies resemble wrinkles etched into the landscape, a testament to nature’s relentless artisanship over millennia.

Nearby, a yacht marina offers boat tours through the gorge’s striking scenery. The hour-long journey takes visitors directly past the point where the two rivers meet, allowing close-up views of the water’s transition from green to yellow. 

Along the way, travelers can encounter the extraordinary Bingling Stone Forest, a landscape where towering rock formations create a surreal scene.

The stone forest is renowned for its diverse pillars, peaks and walls shaped by long-term weathering and erosion. Many naturally formed pillars and rocks take on imaginative silhouettes, such as animals, human figures and architectural structures, inspiring people to craft stories as they drift past.

As the yacht glides through this narrow stretch, the waterway tightens, leading deep into the gorge. After visitors disembark they discover a surprising cultural treasure: the Bingling Temple Grottoes, carved into the cliffs and housing a rich collection of Buddhist art. The site includes 216 caves, hundreds of statues and numerous murals spanning multiple dynasties.

As visitors walk deeper into the cliffside complex, the true marvel reveals itself: the main statue of Bingling Temple, a 89-foot-tall Buddha carved into the mountain during the Tang Dynasty (618-907). 

The sheer scale of the statue, framed by weathered sandstone grottoes, is apt to stop travelers in their tracks. Sunlight filters into the canyon, illuminating the Buddha’s serene countenance, which has gazed upon the Yellow River for over a millennium.

High in the cliffs the caves overlook the Buddha statue from a vantage point 131 feet above the riverbed. Visitors reach them via a series of wooden staircases climbing alongside the statue.

Yet, the Yellow River’s wonders extend far beyond Linxia’s confluence and grottoes. As the river continues eastward, it slices through the arid landscapes of Baiyin, a city about 120 miles away, where another geological masterpiece awaits — the Yellow River Stone Forest, a national geological park. 

Here, the landscape shifts from Linxia’s water-sculpted limestone to vast, wind-carved pillars rising from the desert. It is surrounded by rolling hills, desert stretches and the constant presence of the Yellow River’s winding ribbon. 

From Baiyin, an hour’s drive takes travelers to the geopark, where scenic shuttles transport visitors deep into the canyon. 

On both sides, clusters of stone pillars soar skyward, ranging from dozens of feet to over 300 feet in height. The tallest reach 656 feet — equivalent to a 70-story building — creating an exceptionally dramatic landscape.

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