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# Flavors of modern China spread globally

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_Customers dine at Shaxian Delicacies in London on Aug. 18\. OUYANG KAIYU / CHINA NEWS SERVICE_

By YU RAN

The image of Chinese food abroad is changing as a new generation of restaurant brands arrives overseas with ambitions that stretch far beyond the dimly lit Chinatown restaurants of yesteryear.

The top 50 Chinese catering and new tea-beverage brands collectively operated 6,801 stores abroad by the end of 2025, with 24 opening their first overseas outlets after 2023, according to the China Chain Store and Franchise Association. Today, nearly 700,000 Chinese-owned restaurants operate across more than 180 countries and regions, a trend the Hongcan Industry Research Institute said began in 2023, the first year of the sector’s earnest global expansion.

For many of those behind the push, the motivation is as personal as it is commercial.

Ma Xuejun, 30, the founder of Noodle MaMa, a restaurant in Melbourne, Australia, specializing in Xiangyang beef noodles, knows this feeling well.

The choice to focus on Xiangyang-style noodles — known for its rich beef broth, handmade noodles and chili oil — rather than more familiar Chinese dishes, was deliberate.

“A lot of people asked me: who knows Xiangyang noodles? Why not do something more mainstream? But I’ve always believed that the more regional a food is, the more vitality it has. Behind every local flavor is culture, memory and human emotion,” Ma said.

The popular restaurant opened in April this year in Melbourne’s Balwyn suburb. Australian diners currently make up around 10% of customers, and most have become regulars. Many have surprised Ma by embracing the spiciness of the noodles.

“I was watching them nervously the whole time, worried they couldn’t handle the heat. However, they told me that is exactly the kind of spicy we like,” she said.

While individual restaurateurs have built their presence one store at a time, larger chains are approaching global expansion on a far greater scale.

Yangguofu Malatang has become one of the most recognizable Chinese food chains internationally, with nearly 7,000 stores worldwide, including about 200 overseas across more than 20 countries and regions by late 2025.

Zhu Hongzhen, head of the brand center and chief global supervisor of Yangguofu Malatang, said the company’s international expansion reflects not only commercial opportunities, but also changing global perceptions of Chinese food. The company began expanding overseas in 2017.Amy Duan, founder of Chihuo, a leading North American Chinese-language food media platform, has spent more than a decade working at the intersection of Chinese food culture, consumer insights and restaurant expansion across North America.

“In the early days, it was about filling a gap. There were hundreds of thousands of Chinese students with no real options. So, restaurants started serving more authentic regional food, Sichuan, Hunan, hotpot. That laid the groundwork for what came next,” said Duan.

Chinese food companies today have mature systems and clear commercial strategies. “They’re taking the North American market seriously now,” she said. “That’s new.”

Tea drink brands have made the deepest inroads.

“You can see it in who’s queuing. American-born Chinese customers, Korean Americans, Latino diners, even white customers at some of the more localized brands. It’s become genuinely mainstream for certain demographics,” she said.

Hotpot and malatang dishes have followed a similar trajectory, helped in part by the popularity of Japanese ramen and Vietnamese pho, which familiarized American diners with broth-based Asian dishes.

The global Chinese dining market grew from $227.5 billion in 2020 to $359.4 billion in 2024 and is projected to reach $577.7 billion by 2030, according to iiMedia Research.

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