--- title: Heavens to Betty: Papua New Guinea's Eastern Highlands description: In the Eastern Highlands of Papua New Guinea, a woman stands alone at the fringe of one the world's great wildernesses. Her name is Betty... canonical: https://time.com/archive/6938699/heavens-to-betty-papua-new-guineas-eastern-highlands/ author: Ian Neubauer article:opinion: false article:content_tier: free article:published_time: 2011-10-13T04:00:00.000Z article:modified_time: 2026-03-23T06:10:16.898Z og:title: Heavens to Betty: Papua New Guinea's Eastern Highlands og:description: In the Eastern Highlands of Papua New Guinea, a woman stands alone at the fringe of one the world's great wildernesses. Her name is Betty... og:url: https://time.com/archive/6938699/heavens-to-betty-papua-new-guineas-eastern-highlands/ og:site_name: TIME og:image: https://static.time.com/v3/assets/bltea6093859af6183b/blt1195da3f83377314/698a4f83457a528f39d6999a/360_tga_png_1024.jpg?branch=production&width=360&quality=75&auto=webp&crop=16:9 og:image:width: 360 og:image:height: 203 og:image:alt: 360_tga_png_1024.jpg og:type: article twitter:card: summary_large_image twitter:title: Heavens to Betty: Papua New Guinea's Eastern Highlands twitter:description: In the Eastern Highlands of Papua New Guinea, a woman stands alone at the fringe of one the world's great wildernesses. Her name is Betty... twitter:image: https://static.time.com/v3/assets/bltea6093859af6183b/blt1195da3f83377314/698a4f83457a528f39d6999a/360_tga_png_1024.jpg?branch=production&width=360&quality=75&auto=webp&crop=16:9 ---  # Heavens to Betty: Papua New Guinea's Eastern Highlands > Sponsored content. Supplied in partnership with TIME. 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Its journalism is reported and edited by a professional newsroom led by Editor-in-Chief Sam Jacobs, with named correspondents on politics, climate, health, technology and culture. It reaches 1 million US print subscribers and 1.15 million globally, plus more than 1.1 million newsletter readers. #### How do I subscribe to TIME magazine? Subscriptions are at time.com/subscribe-agent. Choose digital only at $20 a year, or print and digital from $29 a year or $49 for two years. TIME also publishes seven free email newsletters at time.com/newsletters, which do not require a subscription. #### Can I cancel a TIME subscription? Yes. TIME states that subscriptions can be cancelled at any time. #### Does TIME have free newsletters? Yes. TIME publishes seven free email newsletters reaching more than 1.1 million readers, covering daily news, Washington politics, health, AI, climate and energy, culture, and the newsroom itself. They are at time.com/newsletters and are separate from a paid subscription. ### Sources * TIME Newsletters: [time.com/newsletters](/c/time-sub-2026q3/newsletters?i=d1eae7eb-8cc7-4467-80c5-c94f94483495&cr=time-sub-2026q3-v1) * TIME Subscriptions: [time.com/subscribe-agent](/c/time-sub-2026q3/subscribe?i=d1eae7eb-8cc7-4467-80c5-c94f94483495&cr=time-sub-2026q3-v1) by [Ian Neubauer](https://time.com/author/ian-lloyd-neubauer/) Oct 13, 2011 4:00 AM UTC  Chicken or fish? Ex-flight attendant Betty Higgins makes guests feel welcome Chicken or fish? Ex-flight attendant Betty Higgins makes guests feel welcome Ian Lloyd Neubauer by [Ian Neubauer](https://time.com/author/ian-lloyd-neubauer/) Oct 13, 2011 4:00 AM UTC In the Eastern Highlands of Papua New Guinea, a woman stands alone at the fringe of one the world’s great wildernesses. Her name is Betty Higgins, a former Air Niugini flight attendant who spent decades jetting around the globe before retiring a few years ago on 40 hectares of woodland near the village of Kegesugl. There she built a home, trout farm and the informal B&B that is Betty’s Lodge. Set at the base of Mount Wilhelm, which at 4,509 m is one of the country’s highest peaks, Kegesugl offers nature in the raw. “I’ve been there 50 or 60 times, and every time I go there I have found new species of plants,” says Phil Spencer of Orchid Productions, an Australian company that offers 15-day orchid tours in the highlands. [(See pictures of Papua New Guinea’s newly discovered species.)](https://www.time.com/time/photogallery/0,29307,2023980,00.html) The area has remained untouched because of the difficulty and danger in getting there. From the capital Port Moresby, a one-hour flight to Mount Hagen Airport is followed by a nail-biting two-hour drive along the Highlands Highway and the dreaded three-hour, 45-km haul up the Kegesugl Road — a warren of boulder fields, landslips and impromptu roadblocks set up by toll-collecting local gangs. For outdoors lovers, however, the risks are worth it. Apart from the three-day hike up the mountain that takes in the twin glacial lakes of Piunde and Aunde, Kegesugl boasts world-class fly-fishing, bird watching, butterfly hunting, mountain biking and white-water rafting. After a torturous day on the road, Betty’s Lodge can seem like a maharaja’s palace. With only a few visitors a week, every arrival is a celebrated one, with staff from the village showing the way to a welcoming fireplace. You’ll find Higgins working in the kitchen, baking succulent rainbow trout and preparing an assortment of organic produce grown on-site, from yams to the mouthwatering hybrid banana — passion fruit. Down but not out after the recent passing of her husband — and a landslide that washed away most of her beloved trout farm — Higgins is a maelstrom of energy. “I’m 52 years old now,” she says. “In another 10 years, I might be too old to do this and have to go to live with my daughter so she can look after me. But for now I am here, at the foot of Mount Wilhelm.” To book, e-mail [bhiggins@digicelpacific.blackberry.com](mailto:bhiggins@digicelpacific.blackberry.com). For orchid tour details, see [orchidproductions.com.au](https://orchidproductions.com.au/). [See pictures of luxury private islands.](https://www.time.com/time/photogallery/0,29307,1718329,00.html) [See TIME’s Global Adviser for exotic, beautiful and interesting getaways.](https://www.time.com/time/travel/tipsadvice/globaladviser) ```json [{"@context":"https://schema.org","@type":"NewsArticle","@id":"https://time.com/archive/6938699/heavens-to-betty-papua-new-guineas-eastern-highlands/","mainEntityOfPage":{"@type":"WebPage","@id":"https://time.com/archive/6938699/heavens-to-betty-papua-new-guineas-eastern-highlands/"},"headline":"Heavens to Betty: Papua New Guinea's Eastern Highlands","datePublished":"2011-10-13T04:00:00.000Z","dateModified":"2026-03-23T06:10:16.898Z","description":"In the Eastern Highlands of Papua New Guinea, a woman stands alone at the fringe of one the world's great wildernesses. 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