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# Shanghai's Goga Restaurant

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by 

[Jennifer Chen](https://time.com/author/jennifer-chen/)

Aug 4, 2011 4:00 AM UTC

by 

[Jennifer Chen](https://time.com/author/jennifer-chen/)

Aug 4, 2011 4:00 AM UTC

A few fortunate restaurants bask in the buzz of an admiring public. An even smaller number are regarded highly enough to attract the custom of off-duty chefs from other establishments. Goga, in Shanghai’s former French Concession, is the rare breed of venue that’s gained notice both ways. 

With only five tables, a counter and a tiny open kitchen, Goga — named after the Golden Gate Bridge — isn’t much to look at. No matter. “There are so many places in Shanghai that spend a ton of money on decor to get all the chichi people in there, but there’s no substance,” says chef-owner and native Californian Brad Turley, 41\. Goga aims to be the opposite: a stripped-down neighborhood joint that focuses on giving guests a great meal. 

[(See 25 authentic Asian experiences.)](https://www.time.com/time/specials/packages/article/0,28804,1934455%5F1934447,00.html) 

Turley is grounded in fusion cuisine, having earned his culinary stripes working for the likes of Hawaiian chef Roy Yamaguchi and Floyd Cardoz of New York City’s now defunct new-wave Indian eatery Tabla. But before you recoil at the F word, rest assured that Turley’s cooking is perfectly accessible. Lobster roll is dressed in aioli with cilantro and _sriracha_, a Thai sauce; rib-eye steak is rubbed in a spicy mélange that includes cumin and Sichuan peppercorn, then served with candied bacon and potatoes roasted in duck fat. True to Turley’s roots, the well-edited wine list features mostly Californian bottlings. 

Frustrated diners unable to snag one of Goga’s coveted 20 indoor seats or a spot on the small rooftop terrace will be heartened to know that Turley will soon open a venue next door. But the easygoing chef has no grand expansion plans, unlike the big names that populate the Bund — and Goga after-hours. 

Reservations are essential. Tel: (86-21) 6431 9700.

_Got an awful travel gripe? The Avenger may be able to sort it out for you._ 

[Click here to tell us your problem.](https://www.time.com/time/travel/avenger/form) 

[See Time.com/Travel for city guides, stories and advice.](https://www.time.com/time/travel)

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