Detour

FLUSHING OUT HISTORY Bare-bottomed squatters beside railway lines are many tourists’ firstand sometimes lastingimpression of India. Even Nobel laureate V.S. Naipaul, revolted upon visiting his ancestral homeland, once raged that “Indians defecate everywhere … they never look for cover.” It is therefore a bit surprising to find in New Delhi the world’s only museum dedicated to the history of the toilet. But then this is a small museum with a big mission, as the sign opposite the entrance reading OPEN DEFECATIONSOCIAL CURSE can attest.

Those who raise an eyebrow at the idea of a potted history of the commode will be bowled over by the Sulabh International Museum of Toilets. A spotlessly clean display lays subcontinental claim to the development of flush-toilet technologyfirst utilized in 2500 BC in Mohenjo-daro, in now modern-day Pakistan. Upon the ancient city’s collapse, however, such innovation became lost in the bowels of time, only to be implemented again in the court of Queen Elizabeth I, who had a very simple one installed in her London home.

Models of 18th century European commodes on display are more elegantand equally ingenious: some are disguised as tables, large books and even a globe. Louis XII had a toilet installed in his throne, prompting the court jester to quip that while the French King would only eat in private, he would defecate in public.

Museum founder and sanitation activist Dr Bindeshwar Pathak’s answer to the “social curse” stands in the courtyard: a range of cheap, composting commodes. An earnestly enthusiastic member of staff takes me through every last lavatory detail: apparently a 28 slope is the ideal ergonomic angle for a squat WC.

Not that this line of work is without its laughs. The museum features a wall dedicated to toilet humor, including parting advice that has no doubt salvaged many a relationship. “If you sprinkle when you tinkle, please be sweet and wipe the seat.” Check out sulabhtoiletmuseum.org for more information.