Detour

SEA WORLD Shimoda’s floating aquarium would be just another run-of-the-mill m?lange of fish tanks and lazy sea otters were it not for one feature: heavy petting. Of dolphins, that is. The aquarium offers a variety of “dolphin contact” activities like the one I witnessed at the outdoor pool. Five rubber-suited visitors waded hip-deep into the water to touch, rub and coo over a handful of trained dolphins, including one that resembled a small whale. The idea of touching animals with big teeth freaks me out, so I retreated to the relative calm of the indoor aquarium. But the interior was no more soothing. Just as I was stifling a yawn over the sea anemones and tropical fish, I turned a corner and saw a monster: a takaashigani, or long-legged crab. Make that a very long-legged crab, for the legs can grow to more than three meters. There were two in the tank, both looking staight-ahead with an expression that said, “Go on. Just try to eat me.” They are in fact edible, an aquarium worker told me, “but they don’t taste good.” How so? “Watery.” For the steel-nerved, an adult aquarium ticket goes for $14, a child’s for $7Xbut playing with the dolphins costs an extra $8, call the aquarium at (81-55) 822 3567 for more information.

For those who would rather play in the surf than frolic with its inhabitants, head over to nearby Shirahama beach. Here the vibe turns seaside honky-tonk, complete with surf shops and a groovy taco stand. Everything you need to be a beach bum for the day can be rented at Mariner Shirahama Beach Surf and Sports: $24 for a surfboard and $8 for a boogie board. Shirahama itself is an expansive, white-sand beach, and is a popular summer spot. Even in the off-season the waves are dotted with wet-suited board riders of all stripes: surfers, boogie boarders and windsurfers. Summer or winter, though, don’t worry about the Jules Verneian crabs. They’re deep sea dwellers, and, presumably, won’t get near the beach.