Korea: An Insular Possession

Located 60 kilometers south of the Korean peninsula, Jeju was once an unforgiving wasteland where civilized life abruptly terminated. Bleak, volcanic and windswept, the isolated province was a feared place of political exile during the Chosun dynasty (1392-1911). It’s surprising, then, that Jeju today is the nation’s honeymoon isle, the preferred destination for Korean newlyweds as they take their first tentative steps toward a new life. Surprises, in fact, are what picturesque Jeju has in spades. Dominated by South Korea’s highest mountainthe majestic and snow-dusted Halla-sanJeju’s varied sightseeing treasures include natural waterfalls and enigmatic cave systems (including Manjanggul Cave, the longest lava tube in the world). State-of-the-art spas, resorts, casinos and golf courses also attract visitors in increasing numbers, as do lush botanical gardens and miles of bleached ocher beaches. But it’s the island’s aging female divers, or haenyo, who are its most celebrated draw. Reaching depths of up to 20 meters for minutes at a time without the use of breathing apparatus, these ladies can be seen every morning off the island’s southern and eastern coasts, harvesting abalone, octopuses and other seafood. Threatened by modern aquaculture, their profession is not expected to last another decade. But, then again, Jeju has surprised us more than once before.