See the Elaborate Hindu Dances of Navratri

3 minute read

It is a familiar sight across the western Indian state of Gujarat. Every year, starting on Oct. 13 this year, during the Hindu festival of Navratri — or “nine nights” in Sanskrit — communities across the state come together to perform the garba, a dance that unfolds in a circular pattern as the participants swing from side to side. For nine nights, young and old gather in temple courtyards, on streets and in narrow alleys, and in desert communities in the state’s arid northwest to dance and pray.

But in these colorful photos, the New York City–based photographer Tobias Hutzler offers a different perspective. Traveling across Gujarat during the celebrations in 2014, Hutzler abandoned the street and climbed atop water tanks and temple towers for a bird’s-eye view that puts the motion and startling geometry of the festivities into sharp relief.

“I climbed up the strangest places,” says Hutzler, whose pictures are known for their sweeping scope and dramatic aerial viewpoints, as if he is viewing his subjects from the observation deck of a skyscraper. “I remember one time we went up a water tower, and it was illuminated by these very harsh floodlights that attracted insects and flies and so on — we were covered in them, but it was the only way to have this perspective.”

“Visually,” he adds, “I wanted to get an overview, whether it’s thousands of people dancing in Ahmedabad [Gujarat’s main urban center], or if it’s just one family in the desert.”

The results are captivating. In one photo of a crowded temple courtyard, Hutzler’s unique perspective reveals the small groups that make up the crowd — and that from the ground might have seemed like just another forest of bodies. In another, of a celebration in the desert, the photographer’s lens clearly captures the concentric circles formed by the garba dancers.

“We spent each night in a different location to show the scope of the festival and the celebration. During the day we were moving from place to place, and at night, I was taking pictures,” says Hutzler, who recently photographed Pope Francis for TIME during his visit to the U.S.

“What really fascinated me was the scope of it — families gather, different generations gather. I’ve never seen anything like it.”

Tobias Hutzler is a German advertising and editorial photographer based in New York.

Kira Pollack, who edited this photo essay, is TIME’s Director of Photography and Visual Enterprise.

Nikhil Kumar is a reporter and TIME’s South Asia Bureau Chief.

This temple in the north of Gujarat is entirely unknown. On the eighth day of Navratri, women perform the ritual circle dance as the men are watching. In the background pilgrims are making offerings in the temple, that is decorated for the celebration with thousands of LED lights. On the upper right corner holy smoke fills the temple area, from a fire-temple in which Ayurvedic ingredients are burnt in a huge lot.After long negotiations with the local priests, we were allowed to climb the temple roof and gates, of this ancient temple. This temple and celebration has never been documented to this extend before.
This temple in the north of Gujarat is entirely unknown. On the eighth day of Navratri, women perform the ritual circle dance as the men are watching. In the background pilgrims are making offerings in the temple, that is decorated for the celebration with thousands of LED lights. On the upper right corner holy smoke fills the temple area, from a fire-temple in which Ayurvedic ingredients are burnt in a huge lot. After long negotiations with the local priests, we were allowed to climb the temple roof and gates, of this ancient temple. This temple and celebration has never been documented to this extend before.Tobias Hutzler
Old part of town (pols) Traditional neighborhoods and oldest part of Ahmedabad, the capital of Gujarat. Pols consist out of many small communities, grouped by cast or profession. I asked locals for their permission to climb their rooftops, or enter their bedrooms to get this viewpoint.
A dance in Ahmedabad, the capital of Gujarat.Tobias Hutzler
Dessara, a village approximately 20miles from Bhuj, in the desert Kutch.Photographed from the temple roof. Each area has a different tradition to perform the dance. In this village men are dancing, while women are watching. The men of the village perform the traditional “Gerba” dance around the fires, the symbol for the mother goddess. The women are sitting on the left side. In the background are the musicians and singers, who often perform all night, improvising chants and songs.
Men perform the traditional “Gerba” dance, named after the mother goddess. Tobias Hutzler
Old part of town in the capital of Gujarats. A family dances around the mother goddess figure and fire. Grandmothers watch the dance from the balcony and from inside.
A family dances around the mother goddess figure.Tobias Hutzler
A “pol” community dances in their courtyard, the place decorated for the festivity with many LED lights and chandeliers. Many Gujaratis emigrated to the US, especially to the New York City and New Jersey area. Many of them return to their home state for the holidays and join their families. People are dancing all night, and often the celebration ends at dawn, with a breakfast, eating the blessed food.
A “pol” community dances in their courtyard.Tobias Hutzler
Three generations of a family dance in the circle, grandmother, mother and grandchild In the background are Tuk-Tuks, the men of the family all work as TukTuk drivers.
Three generations of a same family dance in a circle.Tobias Hutzler
Kutch desert close to the Pakistani border. A festive structure was built for the dance, women dance around the fires brought by the families. These fires are worshipped and after the dance brought back to the homes.
Kutch desert close to the Pakistani border. A festive structure was built for the ceremony and many women dance around the fires brought by the families. These fires are worshipped and after the dance brought back to the dancers' homes.Tobias Hutzler
Temple square during the 3rd night of Navratri. The temple is decorated with many LED lights for the holidays, the community dances around an altar. From this village many families emigrated to the US.
The temple square during the 3rd night of Navratri. The temple is decorated with many LED lights for the holidays.Tobias Hutzler
Women and kids are watching the dance, the dance-circle reaches from the temple square to the street and close by neighborhoods.
Women and kids are watching the dance.Tobias Hutzler
In this temple, pilgrims make offerings to the gods during the festivities. After long negotiations, the priest allowed me to climb the temple ceiling and photograph onto the sacred area and the pilgrims from above. This has never been granted before. On the right pilgrims enter the temple, worshiping and praying mantras. In the center offerings are taken by the priests, who are in this moment care for the goddess statue, that is treated like a human being (there are resting times, in the morning and evening the statue gets washed, dressed, and decorated with dresses, jewelry and colors. In the left are the offerings the pilgrims left during the celebration of Navratri.
In this temple, pilgrims make offerings to the gods during the festivities.Tobias Hutzler
An remote temple in the North East of Gujarat on the 8th day of Navratri. After the Aarti, a huge circle was formed and everybody is dancing around the entire temple complex. In the middle are women from neighboring villages and tribal areas, farmers who visited the temple for the celebration.
An remote temple in the North East of Gujarat on the 8th day of Navratri. After the Aarti, a huge circle is formed and everybody is dancing around the entire temple complex. In the middle are women from neighboring villages and tribal areas, as well as farmers who visited the temple for the celebration.Tobias Hutzler

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