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New chefs and new tastes are transforming the iconic hamburger
New Haven, Conn., happens to be the birthplace of two of America’s undisputed cultural treasures: the hamburger and the author of this story. The chamber of commerce might also cite the good universities and even better pizza. None of us native sons is above using the humble old town as a springboard to international acclaim—take George W. Bush or Michael Bolton—but I’ve learned there’s something admirably modest, and very New England, in sticking around and keeping your head down.
Which brings us to two plots of real estate, separated by a little less than two blocks, in present-day downtown. There’s a squat redbrick structure with Bavarian architectural accents situated in the front of a parking lot on Crown …