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Freedom, Sanctions and North Korean Ice Cream: Q&A With Defector Hyeonseo Lee

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Aged just 17, Hyeonseo Lee crossed the Yalu River from North Korea into China on a whim. After living secretly in China for 10 years, she finally made the journey to South Korea, but then returned in a daring bid to smuggle her family out of her impoverished homeland. She wrote her life story in The Girl With Seven Names, which has been quoted at the U.N. Security Council, and in 2013 she gave a much fêted TEDTalk about her experiences.

Now living in Seoul, Lee is in the process of setting up an NGO to advocate for female North Korean defectors and refugees who are vulnerable to physical and sexual abuse.

You recently returned to China to speak at a literary festival about your experiences, were you scared for your safety?
I got a lot of warnings when I was going to Beijing. I was the first North Korean defector to return to China and speak publicly, because it’s really dangerous. The Chinese government doesn’t accept me as a South Korean citizen — [all North Korean defectors automatically get South Korean citizenship] — they still consider me a North Korean defector and they can catch and repatriate me.

The [South Korean] National Intelligence Service did their best to persuade me not to go; they said that they couldn’t guarantee my safety. It took me six months to make a decision.

Read More: Inside the Lives of Two Young North Korean Defectors

I have given a lot of speeches all around the world but I thought China is the place I really have to go. I just went there and hoped that I was safe. I ended up hiding in the Beijing Airport bathroom [at one point] as I didn’t think I could come back or see my family again.

You lived in China secretly for 10 years. Did anyone know your real identity?
[When I was living by the border,] a Chinese person reported me to the police station, because every month there’s a [sweep] for North Korean defectors. My friend was repatriated in the middle of the night because of this. Somebody reported me but I was lucky as my Chinese was really good at the time and they couldn’t believe I was a defector.

Soon after that I moved to Shanghai as I wanted to stay far away from the North Korean defector community [by the border]. I bought a Chinese ID card and completely transformed myself into real a Chinese person. I couldn’t trust anyone as maybe they would turn out to be an enemy and report me.

The shocking thing is there was a girl who was my roommate for many years, and then in 2013 when I did my TEDTalk, she called me from Shanghai. She said, “I didn’t know you’re a North Korean defector,” and I was really embarrassed. But she said, “I understand that you had to do it.” I still felt very bad to have tricked my friend, but that’s the survival game.

Inside the Lives of Two Young North Korean Defectors

70% of the nearly 30,000 North Korean refugees who have made it to South Korea are women. Kyoung-ok arrived in Seoul as a 13 year old in 2009 after escaping North Korea, hiding in a cave in China as authorities rounded North Korean refugees up to send them home during the 2008 Olympic Games, and being smuggled through Vietnam and Cambodia. When asked to describe herself, Kyoung-ok said "I am a tiger. I like to think I can adapt to anything, and that maybe I can be a bit scary too." / The tiger has been a symbol in Korean culture for centuries—in traditional art, it is portrayed as the entire peninsula. Not the DPRK and the ROK, but Korea. This project was made possible with the support of the IU School of Journalism's Ross Hazeltine Scholarship.----Kyong-ok is exhausted as she rides the bus home from school at 7:30 p.m. on March 4, 2015 in Seoul, South Korea. Students in South Korea often have late school nights, with many studying for up to 16 hours a day. The competitive college preparation environment is overwhelming for Kyong-ok. Instead of looking forward to applying to a university, she attends extra classes for hair and nail design in hopes of working in the beauty field and earning money immediately.Caitlin O'Hara
North Korean refugee Kim Kyoung-ok arrived in Seoul as a 13 year old in 2009. Here, she rides the bus home from school at 7:30 p.m. on March 4, 2015, in Seoul. Caitlin O'Hara
Kyong-ok shows photographs she brought with her on the 10-month journey from North Korea through China, Vietnam and Cambodia on Feb. 1, 2015 in a room cafe in Mia, Seoul, South Korea. They show two of her three sisters, her grandfather in full DPRK military regalia, herself as a child in a North Korean elementary school, among other scenes. For contrast, she also shows glamour shots taken in South Korea. Other than a backpack full of food and a few clothes, these pictures were all that she and her mother brought with them when they left the DPRK. Before they left, one of Kyong-ok's older sisters made her a doll from old clothes, but she wasn't able to bring it with her to make room for more food. Caitlin O'Hara
Kyoung-ok shows photographs on Feb. 1, 2015, that she brought with her on the 10-month journey from North Korea through China, Vietnam and Cambodia to South Korea. Other than a backpack full of food and a few clothes, these pictures were all that she and her mother brought with them when they left.Caitlin O'Hara
Donning matching shoes, North Korean refugees Kim Kyong-ok, 19 (Lunar age), and Sarah (English name used in order to protect source), 22, walk arm-in-arm on their way to a Christian church service on Feb. 21, 2015 near Hapjeong, Seoul, South Korea. The women met shortly after they each arrived separately in South Korea at a resettlement camp for refugees. While adjusting to life after North Korea has been challenging, their friendship is a source of strength and solidarity. Caitlin O'Hara
Donning matching shoes, North Korean refugees Kim Kyoung-ok, and Sarah walk arm-in-arm on their way to a Christian church service on Feb. 21, 2015 near Hapjeong, Seoul, South Korea. The women met shortly after they each arrived separately in South Korea at a resettlement camp for refugees. Caitlin O'Hara
Kyong-ok and Sarah spend time on their phones after sharing takeout for dinner at Kyong-ok's apartment on Feb. 28, 2015 in Mia, Seoul, South Korea. Caitlin O'Hara
Kyoung-ok and Sarah spend time on their phones after sharing takeout for dinner at Kyoung-ok's apartment on Feb. 28, 2015 in Mia, Seoul, South Korea. Caitlin O'Hara
Kyoung-ok receives news that a close friend and fellow young North Korean refugee is pregnant on March 10, 2015 in her apartment in Mia, Seoul, South Korea. Abortion is illegal and single motherhood is highly stigmatized in South Korean culture. It can be a cause to lose a job or support from one's family and support system. The friend, who chose not to be identified for her safety, struggles with her mental health and has had a difficult time adjusting to life in South Korea. Caitlin O'Hara
Kyoung-ok receives news that a close friend and fellow young North Korean refugee is pregnant on March 10, 2015 in her apartment in Mia, Seoul, South Korea— a country that ostracizes unmarried mothers. The friend, who chose not to be identified for her safety, struggles has had a difficult time adjusting to life in South Korea. Caitlin O'Hara
Kyoung-ok and Sarah spend time at a norebang (singing room) on Feb. 4, 2015 near Yangjae, Seoul, South Korea. When Kyong-ok first arrived in the South, it was difficult to make friends. Her fifth-grade classmates were suspicious of her, asking her whether she was a communist or a spy. South Koreans believe that North Koreans are confrontational, violent and untrustworthy. In order to make friends, Kyong-ok went to her neighborhood norebang and knocked on the doors of rooms with fellow kids, making friends boldy and quickly. Her mother is a music teacher in Changwon, South Korea (and was, too, in North Korea), and she has a confident, strong singing voice. Caitlin O'Hara
Kyoung-ok and Sarah spend time at a norebang (singing room) on Feb. 4, 2015 near Yangjae, Seoul, South Korea. Caitlin O'Hara
Kyoung-ok smokes on her balcony on Feb. 28, 2015 in Mia, Seoul, South Korea. Now in her third year of high school, she began smoking almost immediately after she arrived in South Korea when she was 13. Feeling alienated as a refugee, she wanted to fit in with her 5th-grade classmates who smoked. Smoking is common among South Korean students due to competitiveness and stress due to long school days and high performance expectations. Students in South Korea often go to school for twelve hours a day.Caitlin O'Hara
Kyoung-ok smokes on her balcony on Feb. 28, 2015 in Mia, Seoul, South Korea.Caitlin O'Hara
Kyoung-ok looks at herself after her aunt cuts and styles her hair in her salon in Seoul, South Korea. She is training to be a hair and nail designer and helps her aunt out when she can. In North Korea, there is little room for self-expression in hair styles, where acceptable styles are sanctioned, but Seoul has quickly become a beauty and style world-capital.Caitlin O'Hara
Kyoung-ok looks receives a haircut and style in her aunt's salon in Seoul, South Korea. She is training to be a hair and nail designer and helps her aunt out when she can. In North Korea, there is little room for self-expression in hair styles, where acceptable styles are sanctioned.Caitlin O'Hara
Kyoung-ok plays pool with Christian King of Liberia, left, and Jerry Alexander of Canada, right, at Club Zion, a Jamaican bar, on March 19 in Itaewon, Seoul, South Korea. After not meeting many foreigners as a child, Kyong-ok loves to visit Itaewon, which is a foreigner-heavy neighborhood close to the United States Army Garrison, to meet people from different places and try foreign food ("But it's so sweet and salty with no spicy flavor"). She especially loves spaghetti, gyros and American breakfast.Caitlin O'Hara
Kyoung-ok plays pool with Christian King of Liberia, left, and Jerry Alexander of Canada, right, at Club Zion, a Jamaican bar, on March 19 in Itaewon, Seoul, South Korea. Kyoung-ok loves to visit Itaewon, which is a foreigner-heavy neighborhood, to meet people from different places and sample foreign food.Caitlin O'Hara
Kyong-ok zips up Sarah's jacket, which she borrowed from her brother, during a night out Feb. 4, 2015 in Seoul, South Korea. The community of North Korean refugees is growing smaller and more tight knit with the help of social networks and human rights groups. Caitlin O'Hara
Kyoung-ok zips up Sarah's jacket during a night out Feb. 4, 2015 in Seoul, South Korea. The community of North Korean refugees is growing more tight knit with the help of social networks and human rights groups. Caitlin O'Hara

How serious is the brainwashing in North Korea?
When Kim Il Sung died in 1994, I was shocked — I never expected him to die. Because we truly believed he was a god, who didn’t smoke, drink alcohol or go to the bathroom, or [have sex] with women.

Some people criticize North Koreans and ask, Are they stupid? How can they believe those ridiculous things? But I say, It doesn’t matter if you’re smart, if you were born in North Korea you would be exactly like us. We don’t know what freedom is. We have never enjoyed it. We don’t know what democracy is or capitalism. We are completely blocked. Not only from the outside world, but also domestically as it’s not easy to travel around inside North Korea unless you have a travel certificate from the regime. You only have one TV channel — it’s a propaganda channel. We believed that’s utopia because we cannot compare.

Read More: Is It Time to Attack North Korea?

Then why do so many North Koreans — currently estimated at 100,000–300,000 — flee into China?
Most of those who go to China are from the border region like me, because they see the people in China live a better life than us. I was very naive. The moment I escaped to China, I didn’t have any money, I only had one address in my hand, of some long-distance Chinese relatives. I didn’t know China was that big. I thought I can find their home very easily and I would come back one week later. But then I found out the address was a 10-hour drive away.

I just wanted to see China with my own eyes. I wanted to see whether North Korea was the best country in the world or China was the best. I grew up believing that China was much worse than North Korea, because that’s what the regime told us.

What does freedom mean to you?
To me, realizing freedom, democracy is really difficult. I’m still learning every day, every minute. But when I was in China I realized this was freedom: watching Chinese TV without hiding the set and turning the volume right down. I could listen to South Korean songs very loudly [which are banned in North Korea]. And I could buy a bus ticket or train ticket on site and just go.

And the amount of ice cream! I was shocked. In North Korea we only have one type and it tastes like water. To me, sitting here drinking coffee with a blue sky is really freedom. It makes me feel really happy. I feel all these little things are really precious.

Do you miss North Korea?
North Korea is not the dictator’s country; it’s 25 million citizens’ country, and they are suffering under the dictator. North Koreans are really nice, kind, pure people. I hate the dictator and the regime, but I love my home country. I know that I can’t go back there. Even though the country is very dark — it’s like a disaster — it’s my home. Every night I go back there in my dreams.

In March, the U.N. increased sanctions on North Korea. Was this the right move?
I strongly agree with the sanctions. The U.N. and State Department now have the strongest sanctions ever, and I say it should have been earlier, and I told that to [U.S. Ambassador to the U.N.] Samantha Power in New York.

People worry that the sanctions will hurt North Korean citizens but won’t hurt the high-ranking people. But that is absolutely not true. The regime provides nothing to ordinary citizens. Nothing. They don’t rely on the regime for any public distribution system. People rely on themselves with the market system. So the sanctions affect the regime and those earning foreign currency for the regime.

Read More: The Detention of a U.S. Student in North Korea Underscores the Risks of Traveling There

But some people argue its better to engage the regime and have dialogue?
People who [advocate] engagement don’t understand the regime or the Kim family — they are evil and they are smart. That’s the reason they don’t open their economy. If you engage with them you will just make them stronger and the regime will last longer.

Why are you starting your NGO now?
It’s called North Korean Women and it’s for female North Koreans living inside North Korea, in China, in South Korea and the world. Life as a North Korean defector is really painful. Women are sold as sex slaves to human traffickers or Chinese men. They are being tortured, are suffering, with no payment, but the sad thing is that even a 20- or 30-year-old North Korean woman being a sex slave or being sold as human merchandise to an old Chinese farmer prefers that situation to being repatriated to North Korea. It’s another hell to live in North Korea.

My long-term goal is the help North Korean people in China communicate with the Chinese people in a safe situation. So if Chinese people tell the Chinese government that they care about these issues then maybe the Chinese government will change in the end. Because the mainland people in China don’t know anything about this issue.

A Border With a View: Watching North Korea From the Outside

South Korean tourists point in Hunchun, China, point toward North Korea across the Tumen River. The Russian border lies to their left.
South Korean tourists point in Hunchun, China, point toward North Korea across the Tumen River. The Russian border lies to their left.Albert Bonsfills
The Sino-Korean Friendship Bridge spans the Yalu River, connecting the cities of Dandong, China, and Sinuiju, North Korea.
The Sino-Korean Friendship Bridge spans the Yalu River, connecting the cities of Dandong, China, and Sinuiju, North Korea.Albert Bonsfills
A North Korean performer at a traditional musical show in a North Korean restaurant near Tumen, China.
A North Korean performer at a traditional musical show in a North Korean restaurant near Tumen, China.Albert Bonsfills
North Korean restaurants, like this one in Yanji, China are lucrative businesses for the North Korean government and offer a window into North Korean culture for visitors.
North Korean restaurants, like this one in Yanji, China are lucrative businesses for the North Korean government and offer a window into North Korean culture for visitors. Albert Bonsfills
A piece of clothing covered with sand just a few feet from the North Korean border fence next to Hunchun, China. If defectors are caught in China, they are repatriated back to North Korea to face harsh interrogations and years of punishment, or even death in political prison camps or reeducation camps.
A piece of clothing covered with sand just a few feet from the North Korean border fence next to Hunchun, China. If defectors are caught in China, they are repatriated back to North Korea to face harsh interrogations and years of punishment, or even death in political prison camps or reeducation camps.Albert Bonsfills
A man observes a diorama in China’s only Korean War museum in Dandong, China. The Chinese People’s Liberation Army entered Korea to fight against the United States involvement when the Korean War broke out in 1950. Dandong, a frontier town, experienced first-hand the horrors of war.
A man observes a diorama in China’s only Korean War museum in Dandong, China. The Chinese People’s Liberation Army entered Korea to fight against the United States involvement when the Korean War broke out in 1950. Dandong, a frontier town, experienced first-hand the horrors of war. Albert Bonsfills
A cave near the Yalu River in the expanding city of Dandong. Caves are used by defectors fleeing from North Korea to hide.
A cave near the Yalu River in the expanding city of Dandong. Caves are used by defectors fleeing from North Korea to hide. Albert Bonsfills
Security cameras in Dandong, China keep watch over a narrow stretch of the Yalu River that is sometimes crossed by North Korean defectors.
Security cameras in Dandong, China keep watch over a narrow stretch of the Yalu River that is sometimes crossed by North Korean defectors. Albert Bonsfills
Downtown Yanji, the Chinese city with the largest concentration of ethnic Koreans in China, and a busy trade hub between China and North Korea.
Downtown Yanji, the Chinese city with the largest concentration of ethnic Koreans in China, and a busy trade hub between China and North Korea.Albert Bonsfills
A view of the Tumen river, which forms a natural border between between China and North Korea, and offers a common route for North Koreans trying to escape.
A view of the Tumen river, which forms a natural border between between China and North Korea, and offers a common route for North Koreans trying to escape. Albert Bonsfills
A woman in Dandong, China covers her face with a piece of cloth to protect from mosquitos. In China's border cities, there is a normality to daily life which stands in contrast to the deprivation across the border.
A woman in Dandong, China covers her face with a piece of cloth to protect from mosquitos. In China's border cities, there is a normality to daily life which stands in contrast to the deprivation across the border. Albert Bonsfills
A newly married couple poses with white pigeons for a photo shoot in Dandong, China. Dandong is situated on the banks of the Yalu River, a short distance from North Korea.
A newly married couple poses with white pigeons for a photo shoot in Dandong, China. Dandong is situated on the banks of the Yalu River, a short distance from North Korea. Albert Bonsfills
A border fence near Hunchun, China that separates China and North Korea.
A border fence near Hunchun, China that separates China and North Korea. Albert Bonsfills
A farm situated next to a thermal power plant close to the North Korean border in Tumen, China.
A farm situated next to a thermal power plant close to the North Korean border in Tumen, China. Albert Bonsfills
Chinese soldiers train in the mountains outside Hunchun and near the North Korean border. Tensions have grown between the countries.
Chinese soldiers train in the mountains outside Hunchun and near the North Korean border. Tensions have grown between the countries.Albert Bonsfills
A view of the Tumen river which separates Tumen, China from Namyang, Onsong county, North Korea, at left. Tumen has a very large population of ethnic Koreans, and a detention center for captured North Koreans awaiting deportation.
A view of the Tumen river which separates Tumen, China from Namyang, Onsong county, North Korea, at left. Tumen has a very large population of ethnic Koreans, and a detention center for captured North Koreans awaiting deportation. Albert Bonsfills
A bride adjusts her veil near Jian, China, about 1 km away from the North Korean border.
A bride adjusts her veil near Jian, China, about 1 km away from the North Korean border. Albert Bonsfills
A man places a red flag at the river bank across from north korea border in Dandong, China.
A man places a red flag at the river bank across from north korea border in Dandong, China. Albert Bonsfills

Why do so many North Korean defectors struggle to adjust to life in South Korea?
It’s really sad. Defectors have a lot of issues at the moment, committing suicide, and even going back [to the North]. It’s hard to compete with our South Korean counterparts, because here, the people are highly educated, and grow up with democracy their whole lives. But defectors come from a completely different system — it’s like hell to heaven.

But also [South Korean] society has prejudice. Our perspective is that we were divided for seven decades so we are brothers and sisters. But in reality, when we arrived here we are completely forgotten people from the South Korean perspective, and we are a burden for them.

Are things improving?
I arrived in [South Korea] in 2008 and was received like an alien. But things are getting better. Me and other defectors are willing to tell our stories without hiding our faces. Before they considered us along with the dictators, like we are all ridiculous human beings, but right now some South Koreans are crying with us because they realize we came here not for a vacation but we left behind everything and suffered enormously, and they have sympathy. There are some people helping North Korean students in South Korea in terms of scholarships and funding. So there’s positive change also.

Read More: A Border With a View: Watching North Korea From the Outside

I gave a speech last week in New Zealand, and there was a South Korean exchange student in the audience. She came to me afterwards and said, “Can I hug you? I didn’t know. Even though I was living in South Korea my whole life I had never heard this real story of North Korean people.”

I thought that South Koreans basically knew what is going on but now I think they don’t know. People need to understand that we are the same people and need to raise awareness of unification.

Will the Korean peninsula ever be reunited?
I’m sad that [many South Koreans] don’t want unification, they want to be completely separate. The older generation feel connected somehow to North Korea so they want unification. After they die the new generation doesn’t even know when the Korean War happened. For them it’s completely [ancient] history.

If we don’t have unification within 20 years, it will be like we became completely two different countries. That’s why I’m scared right now. But who knows? Unification always seems a long distance away but maybe it’s quite close.

This interview has been edited for clarity and length.

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Write to Charlie Campbell / Seoul at charlie.campbell@time.com